Squalane, the new hydrator on the skincare scene →

Skin compatible and super moisturising, we check out this emollient ingredient

There is a new best-friends-forever ingredient that has been popping up in skincare launches a fair bit lately.

“I’ve been hearing a lot about squalane over the past three years, as consumers and skincare move to more plant-based and organic ingredients,” says Dr Vincent Wong, Founder of Vindoc Aesthetics.
 
Squalane replicates squalene—note the ‘e’ —the protective molecule of naturally occurring skin sebum we all have at birth.

The ingredient is produced naturally by our sebaceous glands and gives the skin its youthful glow, while forming a barrier to protect it from damage caused by free-radical attack, leading to signs of ageing such as brown spots and wrinkles.

As the skin's content of squalene diminishes in our mid-20s due to hormonal changes along with reductions in our levels of collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin, it seems logical to try to replicate it.

And why not, given that it is a weightless, multipurpose, mega-moisturising molecule that instantly hydrates face, body and even our hair?  

The science behind squalane

The closest scientists have found to human squalene was sourced from shark livers—neither a sustainable nor ethical practice, especially as 3,000 sharks are needed to produce one ton of the elixir.

This led to research into synthesising the molecule from ingredients such as sugarcane, olive and rice bran: due to the different human and animal-free compound, squalene with an ‘e’ became squalane with an ‘a.’  

So what’s the difference between the two? “Squalane is not only sourced from plants, it is a hydrogenated version of squalene which adds an oxygen and hydrogen atom to the molecule, making it more stable as an ingredient so easier to formulate—it also increases shelf life,” explains Dr Wong.

And it’s not just an emollient—applied neat, skincare brand Biossance which has squalane at its heart, found that using 100 per cent squalane oil accelerated cell turnover five days faster when compared to non-treated skin.

“With increased cell turnover we have better skin quality, glowing and thicker skin because there are fewer dead cells attached to the dermis,” adds Dr Wong.

When and how should squalane be used?

Winter is a great time of year to start using the ingredient. “Squalane can fortify and strengthen the skin barrier and thereby improve or prevent transepidermal water loss, especially in the winter season where cold winds and dry indoor heating can cause the skin to lose more moisture and experience dryness,” says Anna Baker, Cosmetic and Dermatology Nurse Practitioner.

Unlikely to cause a reaction, it’s also a brilliant ingredient for helping to reduce inflamed skin, psoriasis and eczema.  “These conditions have higher transdermal water loss and squalane reduces this, therefore skin is less irritated and less inflamed,” Dr Wong continues.

As for acne? “It is actually really good as it doesn’t clog the pores, and acne can cause water loss so it will help the skin by preserving water within the skin's barrier function.”

Dr Wong is clear that squalane is a great moisturiser but do not forget those power-packed active ingredients such as retinoids and vitamin C; although active in preserving moisture and thickening the skin, squalane is a subtler ingredient and should be applied over a powerful active serum, followed by sun protection.  

Tocopherol, the hero antioxidant to put on your skincare radar →

Discover the numerous beauty benefits of this hardworking antioxidant

Ever heard of tocopherol? Not on your radar?  The substance actually makes up 96 per cent of your skin’s natural antioxidant defence system, an oil formed in the sebaceous glands, before being delivered to the skin.

As a skincare ingredient it’s relatively unknown in the beauty vernacular, yet it has a multitude of dermal benefits for all ages so it is time to shout about it.
 
So, what exactly is it? “Tocopherol is a form of vitamin E typically derived from vegetable oils” says Dr Rita Rakus, whose skincare range contains tocopherol from sunflower seed oil from Spain and non-GMO soybeans.  

“Vitamin E comes in eight natural forms, including four tocopherols that are sourced from vegetable oils – alpha-tocopherol, beta-tocopherol, gamma-tocopherol, and delta-tocopherol – and they are commonly used in combination to create skincare and supplements,” she continues.  

“Tocopherol is one of the strongest antioxidants on the market” says Facialist and Acupuncturist Ada Ooi, who looks after the complexions of Rooney Mara, Ellie Goulding and Lily Allen.  Ooi features tocopherol oil as a key ingredient in her skincare brand 001 London, “because it is also a powerful emollient and the high levels of antioxidants mean it has photo-protective properties against UVB rays.”

And there are more benefits: tocopherol also works as an anti-inflammatory, as well as helping to nourish the skin and repair cell damage.  “There is some data to support that application can interrupt the skin’s inflammatory responses, and may potentially protect skin barrier function, maintaining its structure and preventing skin disease flare ups, such as rosacea and vitiligo,” says Emma Coleman, aesthetic registered Nurse Practitioner.

 “Studies have shown it has photo-protective qualities and can prevent effects of UV light happening on the skin’s surface such as pigmentation for example,” she continues.

Tocopherol also discourages sebum oxidisation that leads to blackheads, milia – the pesky white lumps under the skin – and pimples while supporting the skin’s barrier function.  

It also defends skin against damage while also promoting wound healing – in its purest form, vitamin E can help accelerate repair of cuts and burns and reduce the risk of scarring.
 
The smallest amount of UV exposure can reduce the levels of Vitamin E found in your skin by 50 per cent, so looking for this ingredient in skincare will help top it up.  

Another way to keep levels high is to fight free radicals from within with vitamin E nutrients called tocotrienols.

“Tocotrienols are compounds naturally occurring at higher levels in some vegetable oils, including palm oil, rice bran oil, wheat germ, barley, saw palmetto, annatto, spinach and other types of seeds, nuts and grains, and the oils derived from them,” says Petrina Nugawela, specialist aesthetic practitioner and founder of MBA clinics

As for the downsides? There don't seem to be any. “Tocotrienols are generally well tolerated without any significant side effects,” continues Dr Rakus.   However, despite the UV protective elements, the mantra sill applies – always wear sunscreen every day, whatever the weather.

It's time to feel the love for lactobionic acid

Make no mistake, this easygoing but effective acid will treat sensitive skin with the tender loving care it requires

Lactobionic acid sounds like the description for a supersonic non-lactose intolerant Marvel hero. In fact, it is a superhero ingredient for sensitive skin and part of the PHA or polyhydroxy acid family.

A next-generation cousin of AHA’s, or alpha hydroxy acids which can be a little too demanding on some skin types, lactobionic acid from the PHA family offshoot has similar efficacy but is a fantastic alternative for sensitive skin.  

“Lactobionic acid is known as a miracle multitasking antioxidant that can moisturise and exfoliate the skin at the same time to reveal plump, youthful results,” says Dr Rita Rakus of Dr Rita Rakus Clinic in London.  “But it also increases moisture levels to smooth out fine lines and wrinkles, and banish a dull-looking complexion for a beautiful even tone.”

By exfoliating and removing dead skin cells, not only is collagen production increased, lactobionic acid also enables active ingredients to be more easily absorbed without any damage to the skin's barrier function – it also binds humectants, or water, to the dermis to plump up the skin.

Which begs the questions, what is the difference between PHAs and AHAs? “The PHA lactobionic molecule is much larger, making it absorb less into the skin but sits on top and therefore is considered less irritating,” says Petrina Nugawela, Specialist Aesthetic Practitioner and Founder of MBA clinic.

However, that doesn’t mean it’s not as effective.  “If your skin is prone to irritation but you are looking for the same benefits that an AHA can give you, lactobionic acid could be the ingredient to look out for,” Nugawela continues.

It is even recommended for dry, itchy skin which we are often blighted by at this time of year, thanks to coming in from the cold to central heating. According to Emma Coleman, Dermatology and Aesthetic RGN, “Lactobionic acid is suitable for use with sensitive skin, rosacea, acne and even following cosmetic procedures.”  

Research also shows that under supervision it can help reduce the prospect of acne scarring on skin with this medical condition.

Lactobionic and lactic acid could be easily confused but they are two different beasts.  “Lactic acid is a derivative product of glucose by bacterias naturally present on the skin, which is what we call a postbiotic,” says Pharmacist Dr Marine Vincent, Founder of London’s French Pharmacy.

“Lactic acid’s natural role is to decrease the PH of the skin so the good bacterias can multiply instead of the bad ones, and lactobionic acid goes further than that with its antioxidant action.”

And a fun fact? “Lactobionic acid was first found in Japan in a fermented milk product known as Caspian Sea yoghurt,” says Nugawela. From Japan to an anti ageing essential and sensitive skin alternative to AHA’s with all the benefits. Who knew...

Ayurveda: The 5,000-year-old secret to looking your best

YOU magazine

FEBRUARY 19, 2018

From resolving breakouts to glossing up lacklustre hair, the ancient Indian healing practice of Ayurveda is revolutionising today’s beauty industry. Beatrice Aidin reports…

Skincare trends come thick and fast these days – and seem to evaporate just as speedily. But could a 5,000-year-old philosophy be the key to resolving acne breakouts as well as early-onset wrinkles?

Ayurveda, the ancient Indian wellbeing practice, is now, several millennia after it was first developed, having a beauty moment. Key names including Rituals, which has just launched The Ritual of Ayurveda, and newer brands such as Mauli and Samaya – all formulated according to Ayurvedic principles – are big beauty news, and are starting to hit the high street.



‘I’ve been watching the growing trend towards Ayurvedic beauty for a number of years and it’s fascinating how the traditional Indian market has inspired a growing number of Western interpretations,’ says Vivienne Rudd, director of global insight and innovation, beauty and personal care at consumer research company Mintel. Margaret Mitchell, buying director for Space NK, agrees: ‘Ayurveda is an area that we believe our customers are finding increasingly interesting.’

So what is it? ‘Ayurveda is a holistic Indian healing system that helps you to achieve balance through food, herbs, meditation, yoga and detoxing,’ says Sunita Passi, a qualified Ayurveda trainer and founder of Tri-Dosha beauty range. ‘This system may be many thousands of years old, but its values are increasingly relevant to today’s lifestyles,’ says Niki Schilling, director of innovations for Rituals, who believes that our burnout culture begs for a gentler, more mindful approach to both looking and feeling our best. ‘Put simply, Ayurveda is the antidote to modern living,’ agrees Anita Kaushal, co-founder of Mauli skincare, which is sold at Space NK.

The time is more than ripe, as Abida Halstenberg, founder of Ayurvedic skincare brand Samaya, has discovered. Having wanted to create an Ayurvedic range for ten years, she finally launched Samaya in August 2016. ‘I was worried that the UK may not be ready for it, but then meditation, clean food and yoga – all tenets of Ayurveda – went mainstream,’ she explains. Her timing could have been written in the stars; the luxurious Ayurvedic skincare range has won 11 beauty industry awards and her nutritional supplements regularly sell out at department store Fenwick.

But is there science behind Ayurveda? Safe to say that few fads last 5,000 years, and in India a new government department is currently setting up Ayurvedic clinics in every district. With prime minister Narendra Modi asserting that the time has come for an Ayurveda ‘health revolution’, India even has a dedicated annual Ayurveda Day.

The ancient practice is also appealing to today’s consumers because it offers a physical, psychological and even spiritual blueprint from the point of identifying different types of people, defined as ‘doshas’ – based on personality, physique and skin type. There are three doshas: vata, pitta and kapha. ‘Put simply, a person whose dosha is vata has the ether and air elements inside them, and are creative with boundless energy and ideas but quite highly strung,’ explains Sunita. ‘A vata will have drier skin and be prone to fine lines, which means they need moisture. Pitta, with its fire andwater elements, lends itself to leaders such as doctors or lawyers, and tends to have a slightly more oily skin. A kapha, dominated by water and earth elements, has a kind, nurturing personality, prevalent in nurses or teachers, and a moist skin type.’

But that is just scratching the surface; we all have a dominant and less dominant dosha and in Ayurveda the aim is to equalise the two. ‘For example, I am a pitta/kapha,’ says Sunita. ‘So I’d start with the pitta skincare to equalise the dominant dosha and balance my body and complexion, but also work with other elements, such as yoga and diet.’

And, as we know, diet plays a huge part in skin health – as Jasmine Hemsley’s recent East by West recipe book, rooted in Ayurveda, explains. ‘Ayurveda changed my whole approach to beauty,’ Jasmine says. ‘I am predominantly vata, and used sesame oil on my body to pacify the dryness even before I knew it was an Ayurvedic remedy.’

However, it’s not only about finding your doshas and the correct ingredients for you; it is how the products are formulated. ‘We make our products in the Ayurvedic tradition, so we had a Hindu priest, who is also an astrologist, help us choose the right location,’ explains Denise Leicester, founder of UK-based organic Ayurvedic skincare brand Ila. ‘Our production area faces east and formulators work in silence; the only sound is chanting from an iPod in the background.’

All very charming, but how much of this is true to Ayurvedic tradition? Like many Ayurvedic entrepreneurs, it was Abida Halstenberg’s childhood in India and her grandmother’s lively kitchen that provided the origins for Samaya. ‘My grandmother grew up in the tradition that skincare was formulated using natural ingredients. We used 1,000-year-old recipes such as chickpea flour mixed with rose water and turmeric to make a face mask. Buying a pot of cream from a shop was a novelty.’

Ayurveda has had plenty of detractors, particularly in the West, but the tide is turning. ‘As the world gets smaller and information is more readily available, people are starting to explore Ayurveda through a scientific lens,’ says Shrankhla Holecek, founder of Uma oils. ‘And, most importantly, people who are practising Ayurveda today are seeing notable results.’

Know your dosha

Ayurveda is based on the principle that everything, including us, is made up of five elements: fire, water, earth, air and ether. These elements combine to form three mind-body types called doshas: kapha (water and earth), pitta (fire and water) and vata (air and ether). We are predominantly governed by one of these doshas and this will affect our wellbeing – including our skin.

Vata Skin may be dry and flaky, easily dehydrated with a tendency to wrinkles as it ages. The complexion can take on a dull quality if the body is not in balance.
Pitta This dosha craves coolness and is aggravated by heat. Skin tends to be sensitive, prone to redness, breakouts, liver spots and burns easily.
Kapha Skin is cool to the touch and is oilier and smoother than vata or pitta. This dosha sweats more easily and has a tendency towards blackheads and enlarged pores. Kapha skin ages well.

Beautifully balanced brands

Rituals The Ritual of Ayurveda Dry Oil Collection (£19.50 each, rituals.com)
Silky oils for each dosha: sweet almond and basil for vata; lavender and ylang-ylang for pitta and cinnamon and ginger for kapha.

Samaya Hydrating Cleanser (£69, samayaayurveda.com)
One of the most luxurious cleansers on the market. For vatas, its powerful botanicals include rose and turmeric; for pittas, jasmine, neem and lotus, and for kaphas sandalwood and vetiver.

Tri-Dosha Body and Massage Ooils (£23 each, tri-dosha.co.uk)
These hand-blended oils have been formulated for each dosha: Relax is for vatas and relieves stress with camomile and frankincense; Soothe is for pittas and boasts lavender and lemongrass to create a peaceful mind, and Energise is for kaphas, giving oomph to a slow mojo with zinging grapefruit and palmarosa.

Urban Veda Radiance Day Cream (£18.99, boots.com)
A replenishing moisturiser enriched with anti-inflammatory turmeric from an award-winning vegan British brand that’s now stocked nationwide in Boots.

Samaya Supplements (£39 for 60 capsules, samayaayurveda.com)
An Ayurvedic powerhouse in a capsule containing ingredients to support healthy skin and tailored to help each dosha: for vatas the supplement blend also contains tulsi and amla to nourish dry and dehydrated skin; for kaphas, ashwagandha and ginger to stimulate metabolism and, for pittas, saffron and neem to calm and heal sensitive skin.

Ila Face Mask for Glowing Radiance (£35, ila-spa.com)
The Ila website suggests products by mood rather than dosha – such as tiredness, stress and even heartache. This nurtures with rose and argan oils to heal and nourish.

Mauli Grow Strong Hair Oil (£29, spacenk.com)
Mauli founder Anita Kaushal fondly recalls the nightly scalp massage from her mother at the end of a busy day. The practice also strengthens the scalp and gives lacklustre hair a glossy boost.

Uma Pure Energy Wellness Oil (£60, cultbeauty.com)
Uma’s products are grown and produced at an estate in India, by a family of Ayurvedic physicians who have worked for the Indian royal family for generations, The Wellness Oil combines rosemary, ylang-ylang and frankincense to reduce fatigue.

Aveda Invati Advanced Solutions for Thinning Hair (from £25, aveda.co.uk)
The Aveda haircare range is based on Ayurvedic principles, and this new three-pronged approach of exfoliating shampoo, thickening conditioner and scalp revitaliser calls on the ancient Indian art of renewal and specific herbs to enrich and prolong the lifespan of your hair.