Squalane, the new hydrator on the skincare scene →

Skin compatible and super moisturising, we check out this emollient ingredient

There is a new best-friends-forever ingredient that has been popping up in skincare launches a fair bit lately.

“I’ve been hearing a lot about squalane over the past three years, as consumers and skincare move to more plant-based and organic ingredients,” says Dr Vincent Wong, Founder of Vindoc Aesthetics.
 
Squalane replicates squalene—note the ‘e’ —the protective molecule of naturally occurring skin sebum we all have at birth.

The ingredient is produced naturally by our sebaceous glands and gives the skin its youthful glow, while forming a barrier to protect it from damage caused by free-radical attack, leading to signs of ageing such as brown spots and wrinkles.

As the skin's content of squalene diminishes in our mid-20s due to hormonal changes along with reductions in our levels of collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin, it seems logical to try to replicate it.

And why not, given that it is a weightless, multipurpose, mega-moisturising molecule that instantly hydrates face, body and even our hair?  

The science behind squalane

The closest scientists have found to human squalene was sourced from shark livers—neither a sustainable nor ethical practice, especially as 3,000 sharks are needed to produce one ton of the elixir.

This led to research into synthesising the molecule from ingredients such as sugarcane, olive and rice bran: due to the different human and animal-free compound, squalene with an ‘e’ became squalane with an ‘a.’  

So what’s the difference between the two? “Squalane is not only sourced from plants, it is a hydrogenated version of squalene which adds an oxygen and hydrogen atom to the molecule, making it more stable as an ingredient so easier to formulate—it also increases shelf life,” explains Dr Wong.

And it’s not just an emollient—applied neat, skincare brand Biossance which has squalane at its heart, found that using 100 per cent squalane oil accelerated cell turnover five days faster when compared to non-treated skin.

“With increased cell turnover we have better skin quality, glowing and thicker skin because there are fewer dead cells attached to the dermis,” adds Dr Wong.

When and how should squalane be used?

Winter is a great time of year to start using the ingredient. “Squalane can fortify and strengthen the skin barrier and thereby improve or prevent transepidermal water loss, especially in the winter season where cold winds and dry indoor heating can cause the skin to lose more moisture and experience dryness,” says Anna Baker, Cosmetic and Dermatology Nurse Practitioner.

Unlikely to cause a reaction, it’s also a brilliant ingredient for helping to reduce inflamed skin, psoriasis and eczema.  “These conditions have higher transdermal water loss and squalane reduces this, therefore skin is less irritated and less inflamed,” Dr Wong continues.

As for acne? “It is actually really good as it doesn’t clog the pores, and acne can cause water loss so it will help the skin by preserving water within the skin's barrier function.”

Dr Wong is clear that squalane is a great moisturiser but do not forget those power-packed active ingredients such as retinoids and vitamin C; although active in preserving moisture and thickening the skin, squalane is a subtler ingredient and should be applied over a powerful active serum, followed by sun protection.  

Tocopherol, the hero antioxidant to put on your skincare radar →

Discover the numerous beauty benefits of this hardworking antioxidant

Ever heard of tocopherol? Not on your radar?  The substance actually makes up 96 per cent of your skin’s natural antioxidant defence system, an oil formed in the sebaceous glands, before being delivered to the skin.

As a skincare ingredient it’s relatively unknown in the beauty vernacular, yet it has a multitude of dermal benefits for all ages so it is time to shout about it.
 
So, what exactly is it? “Tocopherol is a form of vitamin E typically derived from vegetable oils” says Dr Rita Rakus, whose skincare range contains tocopherol from sunflower seed oil from Spain and non-GMO soybeans.  

“Vitamin E comes in eight natural forms, including four tocopherols that are sourced from vegetable oils – alpha-tocopherol, beta-tocopherol, gamma-tocopherol, and delta-tocopherol – and they are commonly used in combination to create skincare and supplements,” she continues.  

“Tocopherol is one of the strongest antioxidants on the market” says Facialist and Acupuncturist Ada Ooi, who looks after the complexions of Rooney Mara, Ellie Goulding and Lily Allen.  Ooi features tocopherol oil as a key ingredient in her skincare brand 001 London, “because it is also a powerful emollient and the high levels of antioxidants mean it has photo-protective properties against UVB rays.”

And there are more benefits: tocopherol also works as an anti-inflammatory, as well as helping to nourish the skin and repair cell damage.  “There is some data to support that application can interrupt the skin’s inflammatory responses, and may potentially protect skin barrier function, maintaining its structure and preventing skin disease flare ups, such as rosacea and vitiligo,” says Emma Coleman, aesthetic registered Nurse Practitioner.

 “Studies have shown it has photo-protective qualities and can prevent effects of UV light happening on the skin’s surface such as pigmentation for example,” she continues.

Tocopherol also discourages sebum oxidisation that leads to blackheads, milia – the pesky white lumps under the skin – and pimples while supporting the skin’s barrier function.  

It also defends skin against damage while also promoting wound healing – in its purest form, vitamin E can help accelerate repair of cuts and burns and reduce the risk of scarring.
 
The smallest amount of UV exposure can reduce the levels of Vitamin E found in your skin by 50 per cent, so looking for this ingredient in skincare will help top it up.  

Another way to keep levels high is to fight free radicals from within with vitamin E nutrients called tocotrienols.

“Tocotrienols are compounds naturally occurring at higher levels in some vegetable oils, including palm oil, rice bran oil, wheat germ, barley, saw palmetto, annatto, spinach and other types of seeds, nuts and grains, and the oils derived from them,” says Petrina Nugawela, specialist aesthetic practitioner and founder of MBA clinics

As for the downsides? There don't seem to be any. “Tocotrienols are generally well tolerated without any significant side effects,” continues Dr Rakus.   However, despite the UV protective elements, the mantra sill applies – always wear sunscreen every day, whatever the weather.

It's time to feel the love for lactobionic acid

Make no mistake, this easygoing but effective acid will treat sensitive skin with the tender loving care it requires

Lactobionic acid sounds like the description for a supersonic non-lactose intolerant Marvel hero. In fact, it is a superhero ingredient for sensitive skin and part of the PHA or polyhydroxy acid family.

A next-generation cousin of AHA’s, or alpha hydroxy acids which can be a little too demanding on some skin types, lactobionic acid from the PHA family offshoot has similar efficacy but is a fantastic alternative for sensitive skin.  

“Lactobionic acid is known as a miracle multitasking antioxidant that can moisturise and exfoliate the skin at the same time to reveal plump, youthful results,” says Dr Rita Rakus of Dr Rita Rakus Clinic in London.  “But it also increases moisture levels to smooth out fine lines and wrinkles, and banish a dull-looking complexion for a beautiful even tone.”

By exfoliating and removing dead skin cells, not only is collagen production increased, lactobionic acid also enables active ingredients to be more easily absorbed without any damage to the skin's barrier function – it also binds humectants, or water, to the dermis to plump up the skin.

Which begs the questions, what is the difference between PHAs and AHAs? “The PHA lactobionic molecule is much larger, making it absorb less into the skin but sits on top and therefore is considered less irritating,” says Petrina Nugawela, Specialist Aesthetic Practitioner and Founder of MBA clinic.

However, that doesn’t mean it’s not as effective.  “If your skin is prone to irritation but you are looking for the same benefits that an AHA can give you, lactobionic acid could be the ingredient to look out for,” Nugawela continues.

It is even recommended for dry, itchy skin which we are often blighted by at this time of year, thanks to coming in from the cold to central heating. According to Emma Coleman, Dermatology and Aesthetic RGN, “Lactobionic acid is suitable for use with sensitive skin, rosacea, acne and even following cosmetic procedures.”  

Research also shows that under supervision it can help reduce the prospect of acne scarring on skin with this medical condition.

Lactobionic and lactic acid could be easily confused but they are two different beasts.  “Lactic acid is a derivative product of glucose by bacterias naturally present on the skin, which is what we call a postbiotic,” says Pharmacist Dr Marine Vincent, Founder of London’s French Pharmacy.

“Lactic acid’s natural role is to decrease the PH of the skin so the good bacterias can multiply instead of the bad ones, and lactobionic acid goes further than that with its antioxidant action.”

And a fun fact? “Lactobionic acid was first found in Japan in a fermented milk product known as Caspian Sea yoghurt,” says Nugawela. From Japan to an anti ageing essential and sensitive skin alternative to AHA’s with all the benefits. Who knew...