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METRO Milk Beach →

April 10, 2025 by Beatrice Aidin in Food & Drink

Welcome back to The Slice!

We love to queue in the UK – it’s essentially a British custom. But we also like to moan about queuing – so if you have to get in line, you want to know that it’s worth your while.

That’s why we’re letting you in on the restaurants which actually deserve the wait time, as well as our top tips to jumping the queue every time.

And yes, that includes the iconic Parisian restaurant that’s been keeping Londoners lining up around the block for the last 15 years…


By Beatrice Aidin

Having grandly declared Queen’s Park to be the new Hackney – see my review of Don’t Tell Dad last week– it’s tallyho to Soho to try the sister branch of another of QP’s most celebrated restaurants, Milk Beach. 

Tucking Australian food and a light filled relaxed Antipodean atmosphere behind the chaos of Greek Street, Milk Beach oozes calm. The food, service and wine are terrific and the portions generous – the flame-grilled garlic prawns with fermented chilli butter arrived piled high and were swiftly demolished. Yellowfish tuna tartare with kaffir lime vinaigrette and puffed nori is molten in the mouth. Monkfish tail, white miso beurre blanc and monk’s beard (don’t worry, no monks forcibly shaved, it’s similar to samphire) is meaty yet tender and I have been reconverted back to aubergine karaage – the sticky mirin glaze, which can be as sweet as toffee, is on the side of the savoury gods. 

Also, grab your diaries – Milk Beach will be hosting Toast Australia, monthly wine paired dinners, for the rest of the year. with some of the country’s most celebrated wineries such as Shaw + Smith (30th April, £135) and Penfolds in May, for tastes and sips of awesome Oz.

Plates from £11. Ilona Rose House, Manette Street, W1D 4AL.

April 10, 2025 /Beatrice Aidin
2025
Food & Drink
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