Greeting us with comforting white miso soup, Roka’s new £26 express menu follows up strong – with a cracking crispy prawn, avocado maki and a choice of baby chicken with lemon miso, seabream fillet with red onion and miso or baby back pork ribs with sansho.

Opting for the latter two, fresh off the robata, the fish is crispy succulence with a kick, visually too, from the pickled red onion. A mountain of tender pork ribs has me soon defeated despite the deliciousness (yet I still found room for mochi). Designed predominantly with wood, with a theatrical open kitchen, the room is calm, the food phenomenal and especially at these prices, find out for yourselves why Roka rocks.

Express lunch menu, £26. Tues-Fri, 12-3pm. Until 28 Feb. Roka Charlotte Street, Mayfair, Aldwych and Canary Wharf. Book here.